Tuesday 8 July 2008

Letting the train take the strain

There is no greater way to see Europe than by train.

I’ve always been excited by continental railway stations; the range of destinations on offer. Where do you fancy going today: Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin or Munich today? Possibilities...

Even though I’ve spent the last two days solid on trains (nine, so far…) in order to reach Stockholm it’s been the most relaxing and stress-free experience. From the minute I arrived at the wonderfully-restored St Pancras station I’ve been treated to the best of trains: slick, super-fast and supremely comfortable - a far cry from the regular experiences of the exasperated British commuter.

I’ve sped through seven countries, going under the English Channel, over the Rhine, onto a ferry (whilst on the train) over the Baltic Sea between Germany and Denmark, and across the monumental 5 mile long Oresund bridge between Denmark and Sweden.

Moreover, unlike with flying I’ve been able to notice and appreciate the subtle changes along the way.

Having travelled in terms of latitude the equivalent of Sheffield to Shetland I’ve witnessed the changes in languages, accents, food, and even dress (I can safely confirm the socks and sandals phenomenon really does take off at the German border).

Take my first day: as the train headed east out of Brussels the tannoy broadcast announcements in no less than four languages, reflecting the very mixed cultural history of this particular corner or Europe, where borders have become increasingly insignificant.

Or the next day where, as I headed out of Malmo, it suddenly felt as if this was where mankind’s presence in Europe starts to wain, as we headed into a seemingly endless vista of trees, lakes and very few stations.

You may gaze down upon this from a plane but you can never feel it as you would if you travel through it.


Pictures: Cologne cathedral, and train on Baltic ferry


Typical train passengers:

Eurostar (UJ-Belgium): suit, tie, Dell and Café Nero
Thalys (Belgium): muddy festival goer, exuberant or asleep, multiple peircings, pink wellies, Quechua tent and sleeping bag
Deutsche Bahn (Germany): middle-aged tubby junker, ruddy in cheeks and surly in manner, pink shirt and clashing chinos
DSB (Denmark): Boisterous party of scouts, massive backpacks and trunks, matching neckerchiefs and obscure badges. Interesting line in campfire songs
SJ (Sweden): Monosyllabic housewife, knitting in hand

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