Letting the train take the strain

There is no greater way to see Europe than by train.

I’ve always been excited by continental railway stations; the range of destinations on offer. Where do you fancy going today: Paris, Amsterdam, Berlin or Munich today? Possibilities...

Even though I’ve spent the last two days solid on trains (nine, so far…) in order to reach Stockholm it’s been the most relaxing and stress-free experience. From the minute I arrived at the wonderfully-restored St Pancras station I’ve been treated to the best of trains: slick, super-fast and supremely comfortable - a far cry from the regular experiences of the exasperated British commuter.

I’ve sped through seven countries, going under the English Channel, over the Rhine, onto a ferry (whilst on the train) over the Baltic Sea between Germany and Denmark, and across the monumental 5 mile long Oresund bridge between Denmark and Sweden.

Moreover, unlike with flying I’ve been able to notice and appreciate the subtle changes along the way.

Having travelled in terms of latitude the equivalent of Sheffield to Shetland I’ve witnessed the changes in languages, accents, food, and even dress (I can safely confirm the socks and sandals phenomenon really does take off at the German border).

Take my first day: as the train headed east out of Brussels the tannoy broadcast announcements in no less than four languages, reflecting the very mixed cultural history of this particular corner or Europe, where borders have become increasingly insignificant.

Or the next day where, as I headed out of Malmo, it suddenly felt as if this was where mankind’s presence in Europe starts to wain, as we headed into a seemingly endless vista of trees, lakes and very few stations.

You may gaze down upon this from a plane but you can never feel it as you would if you travel through it.


Pictures: Cologne cathedral, and train on Baltic ferry

Typical train passengers:

Eurostar (UJ-Belgium): suit, tie, Dell and Café Nero
Thalys (Belgium): muddy festival goer, exuberant or asleep, multiple peircings, pink wellies, Quechua tent and sleeping bag
Deutsche Bahn (Germany): middle-aged tubby junker, ruddy in cheeks and surly in manner, pink shirt and clashing chinos
DSB (Denmark): Boisterous party of scouts, massive backpacks and trunks, matching neckerchiefs and obscure badges. Interesting line in campfire songs
SJ (Sweden): Monosyllabic housewife, knitting in hand

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A tribute to selfless generosity

A big thank you to Liisa, Florian and all the strangers who have greeted me with such kindness on the journey so far.

In Copenhagen Liisa Bassett, an old friend of my mother's, provided food, shelter, transport and great company. Especially welcome in a city where a bread roll costs £1.20! If you get a change to see a play by Nina Larissa Bassett, do. Both mother and daughter are working hard to retain the fading liberalism of Denmark.

In Hamburg my former flatmate's brother, Florian Oediger, gave up a day of only his second free weekend since completing his thesis to show me the Hanseatic sights of Hamburg and help me blag my way into the public screening of the European Championship final. I was an international sports journalist for the evening. I'm just sorry that your team didn't win Florian.

Then there are the Swedes in the Cologne jazz bar, the crazy Croat and the Roskilde veteran, amongst others, who have all made my European leg of the journey so much more colourful.

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How to...get to Finland without flying

Nobody has checked my passport since leaving London last Friday. Now I'm in Stockholm.

Travelling through Europe is a breeze, with the invaluable help of the Man in Seat 61. Here's how I ended up in an internet cafe called Matrix surrounded by Swedes playing virtual role play games:
London to Brussels on the Eurostar, arriving in Brussels Midi station. Brussels Midi to Koeln Hbf (Cologne train station). Tickets can be half price if you buy on line in advance at http://www.b-rail.be/ (you have to register to use the site). You will not be given a ticket, only a booking reference number and collection code. Write these down and take them with you. When you get to Brussels go to the ticket collection machines near the 'Ing' meeting point. Type in the codes and your ticket pops out.

In Cologne I stayed at: http://www.hostel-cologne.de/. Ask for a quiet room (not on the station side) and not on floor 3 - it stinks! If you don't stay in Köln, the cathedral is right outside the train station. Directly in front. One minute away. And it's free to go in. So if you have time between trains you can just nip in. For a taste of the local brew, there is a good pub (Brauhaus Früh am Dom) nearby that serves the famous Kölsch.

To buy cheaper tickets in advance from Köln to Hamburg (or anywhere in Germany or to Copenhagen or Stockholm) go to http://www.bahn.de/ (you can change the language top right). Again, you'll have to register. You get an e-ticket to print out. Take this with you. When your ticket is checked on the train you'll also need to present the card you bought the tickets with.

To buy a ticket in advance from Copenhagen to Stockholm is tricky as you can only collect them from Copenhagen airport. So I just bought mine at Copenhagen station on arrival from Hamburg.

In Stockolm, stay at the Af Chapman hostel on the recently refurbished 1888 ship. It's not cheap, but definitely worth it. Book in advance to sleep on the boat.

Take the Viking Line ferry from Stockholm to Turku, Finland. There are two sailings each day. One in the day (going through the archipelago is beautiful) and one at night (be prepared to party). I'm on the 07:45 tomorrow. You can buy a ticket as a passenger when you turn up (€17.50).

European public transport is clean, spacious and punctual. I have watched the United Kingdom merge into central Europe and turn into Scandinavia. Travelling overland has been cathartic, creating the space between crazy London life and the trip of a lifetime.

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