Plenty more fish in the sea?

The alarm sounded at 5.30am. Within the hour our sleepy heads were leaping over saline puddles and dodging mini pick-ups laden with treasures from the sea. This was Tokyo’s Tsukiji fish market. Every day over two thousand tonnes of fish and seafood pass from auction to wholesaler to restaurateur to sashimi platters and seafood soup. The Japanese consume a whopping thirty per cent of the world’s fresh fish. The market is a testament to this fact and a poignant reminder of the ruthless plundering of our marine resources. In an attempt to curb over fishing Japan’s quota has been slashed, but the market is still buzzing with increasing amounts of imported fish.

Given my time as a fish geek I can’t resist the opportunity to plug the work of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) and the Marine Conservation Society (MCS). Both working to reduce over fishing, promote sustainable fisheries and make sure that there is enough fish for us to enjoy for centuries to come. The MSC eco-label indicates fish that have come from well managed stocks, and the MCS Good Fish Guide is a useful guide to choosing good fish in a shop or restaurant.

In Japan, there is little evidence that the consumer gives a monkey’s about sustainable fisheries. One evocative example is bluefin tuna. This Japanese favourite, auctioned at the market as frozen torpedoes, is on the verge of extinction yet is still on sale across the country. However, alternatives are available. So when breaking my fast at 7am in a sushi shack in the market, I opted for king mackerel instead. Those few mouthfuls were the most succulent, soft and delicious morsels of fish that my mouth has ever experienced. For the delight of moments such as that, I sincerely hope that we all start to manage and consume fish more sustainably.