Tuesday 30 September 2008

The Olympics


In the north of Beijing, on a large patch of newly-developed land, carved out between the skyscrapers and five-lane highways, large crowds are gathering.

Some of them stop to crane their necks to the sky and admire the wheeling kites above. Flown by old fellows in peaked caps, brandishing acres of string, the colourful and crazy designs proudly claim their patch of blue sky - an ancient and highly popular Chinese pastime.

Back down on the ground though, most people have come to witness the scene of more recently-introduced sporting endeavours - the Olympic Games.

In this year, 2008, no visit to Beijing is complete without a trip to see the Olympic stadium.
It’s China’s National Day tomorrow, a big public holiday, and it seems that every citizen of Beijing is on the subway heading out there to gawp at the ‘bird’s nest’, as the stadium has been unofficially-officially titled.

It’s a fine sight, like a big bowl with holes in it. Another wonder for Beijingers to add to their impressive portfolio: the forbidden city; the Great Wall; the Temple of Heaven.

Not that we got a chance to inspect the stadium at close quarters - it is so popular you need a ticket to even get within 500 metres of it, let alone inside.

And this is over a month after the Games have finished.

We felt vindicated then in the decision we made when planning our trip, to avoid Beijing during the Games - many times we have been told of the massive crowds, exorbitant price rises and constricting security measures.

It was still interesting, though, to visit this Olympic city after the show has ended. In the immediate aftermath we were able to witness the changes that hosting this huge sporting extravaganza has brought to the host city.

Being adopted Londoners, the city due to host the next Games, this was of particular interest to us, giving us a flavour perhaps of what London can expect in four years time.

When London Mayor Boris Johnson (how odd does that still sound?) attended the closing ceremony in Beijing, Jerusalem, Greensleeves and the shipping forecast booming out in the background, to introduce the next host city, what must he have thought of the challenge Beijing has laid down?

Surely he’d have been impressed by the cycling facilities, for Beijing still is very much a city of cyclists.

And undoubtedly he’d have enjoyed the clean air, thanks to the strict curbs on vehicle emissions introduced for the duration of the games. Where were the massive clouds of smog that the British media had told us about?

Then there’s the public transport, where a ride on the fast, efficient and sparkling underground system sets you back about 18p, or on the modern, multi-video-screen buses, relieving you of all of 9p.

But perhaps he’d have been perturbed by the security and its associated costs. Every trip on the metro here necessitates an x-ray check of your baggage. Soldiers and security guards seem to stand on every corner.

Given that he doesn’t have the resources of the People’s Liberation Army will Mayor Boris be shoring up his defences by forming a new Dad’s Army?

I have to admit I have my doubts about ‘London 2012’ ™. But, whether you think flinging ten billion at laying on an exclusive party for a load of lycra-clad athletes and the MDs of the world’s largest corporations whilst much-need projects to benefit ordinary citizens go unfunded is a good idea or not, it’s happening.

Londoners are lumbered with the Olympics and, in the time-honoured British fashion it gives us something to grumble about other than the weather.

So bring on London 2012. As long as it’s got kite flying.

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