Bicycling in Beijing

Never go to China during a national holiday. If you do, you will be fully aware that this is the most populous country on earth. Yesterday, 1st October, when the Chinese celebrate the day that the communist party came in to power in 1949, I foolishly decided to go and visit the preserved body of Chairman Mao in his sparkly crystal coffin in Tiananmen Square. What I didn’t know was that 750,000 other tourists were also moving around Beijing, over a quarter of which were on their way to Tiananmen Square to see their great leaders lay wreaths and release thousands of pigeons into the sky.

The metro, although clean and efficient, was heaving. It felt like I was on my way to the Chinese new year parade in London. Large groups of hip teenagers adorned in fluorescents and perms, elderly couples holding hands and extended families with a gaggle of babies with slits in their trousers (instead of nappies, I understand) squeezed themselves and others into the packed carriages. I was enjoying the company so much that I missed the stop for Tiananmen, twice. Realising that the station must be closed I disembarked at the next stop. Outside I was greeted by a moving mass of flag waving crowds all yelling at and jostling one another, not aggressively, just in the way that Chinese communicate. I went with the flow for a kilometre and then turned back. There was no way I was going to get to Mao’s Mausoleum before it closed and I had no idea how to get back given that all the nearby metro stations were closed or exit only and the surrounding traffic was at a standstill.

Back at the hostel and jilted at having my sightseeing plans scuppered, I was cheered up by Tom’s proposal to hire bikes and tour the hutongs. It was his best suggestion of the week. Bikes totally change Beijing. It suddenly shrinks in size and becomes manageable and friendly. Gone are the elbow and blocking moves on public transport and the lingering stares. Welcome are the cheery ‘hellos’ from chaps playing majong in the street and the freedom to go where and when you want.

Cycling in Beijing is not as scary as it looks. The bike lanes are generous. Not just a piddley green line painted by the side of the road or on a pavement as in the UK, but an actual bike lane the size of that given to cars. You therefore rarely come into contact with the other traffic apart from when you need to overtake buses at the stops. That said, bike lanes have no rules so you need to have your wits about it. But it means you can stop to check the map, do a u-turn or take a video whilst going along (see below) without anyone batting an eyelid let alone dinging their bell. It shouldn’t work, but somehow it does.

Cycling through the wonderful maze of narrow, grey hutongs is the best part. You have to ride by the bell, letting the pedestrians know you are there as you weave in and out. You glide through delicious wafts of steamed dumplings and fried dough, pass by hairdressers and (genuine) massage parlours, dodge children skipping and come across wonderful overgrown courtyards and little known temples. Hutongs are street life and on a bike you are part of the action.

Bike is also quicker than bus, underground or walking. To get to Tiananmen Square from our hostel by bus usually takes over an hour, by tube 45 minutes and during a national holiday it takes forever. By bike it is a guaranteed 30 minutes every time.
So take our advice and avoid China during national holidays and, when you can, cycle. It is without a doubt the most pleasurable way to see and be part of Beijing, especially on a national holiday.